Dr. Clark’s Liver Flush

[As in “The Cure for all Advanced Cancers”, 1999 edition]

For the liver flush you only need a bottle of ornithine and epsom salt. However, Dr. Clark advises that it is necessary to accomplish the parasite cleanse BEFORE the liver flush, and if possible the kidney cleanse also for best detoxification.

Liver CleanseNOTICE: Do not be disappointed if the stones you see are not as large and you get no parasites out. Even if you only get a couple of dozen small stones out of your liver, you have achieved a great deal for your liver and your overall health.

Cleansing the liver of gallstones dramatically improves digestion, which is the basis of your whole health. You can expect your allergies to disappear, too, more with each cleanse you do! Incredibly, it also eliminates shoulder, upper arm, and upper back pain. You have more energy and an increased sense of well being.

Designing a Magnetic Pulser

How do you design an MPG, and calculate Peak Gauss output in the pulsed DC Magnetic Coil?

Revised: August, 2001

The term Gauss is defined as “The electromagnetic unit of magnetic induction, equal to 1 Maxwell per square centimeter. [After K.F. Gauss]”.

The coil used in our Magnetic Pulser (MPG) provides the magnetic charge that is ultimately responsible for inducing the micro-currents (50-100 uA) of electricity into the conducting medium. It is very important to generate the necessary Gauss output from the coil in order to effectively induce this level of current at distances of up to 9″ penetration.

How to Build a Zapper

Zapper schematic


Zapper Parts ListPlease note that some of the part numbers may have changed. But the parts are all very basic so you will easily find another part that will work. According to readers’ feedback, the 8 pin wire-wrapping socket is no longer available, you can just buy a larger one (e.g. 16 pin) and cut it to fit.
Item Radio Shack Catalog Number
Large shoe box
9 volt battery
9 volt battery clips 270-325 (set of 5, you need 1)
On/Off toggle switch 275-624A micro mini toggle switch
1 K-Ohm resistor 271-1321 (set of 5, you need 2)
3.9 K-Ohm resistor 271-1123 (set of 2, you need 2)
low-current red LED 276-044
.0047 uF capacitor 272-130 (set of 2, you need 1)
.01 uF capacitor 272-1065 (set of 2, you need 1)
555 CMOS timer chip 276-1723 (set of 2, you need 1)
8 pin wire-wrapping socket for the chip 276-1988 (set of 2, you need 1)
short (12?) alligator clip leads any electronics shop, get 6
Microclip test jumpers 278-017 (you need 2 packages of 2)
2 bolts, about 1/8? diameter, 2? long, with 4 nuts and 4 washers hardware store
2 copper pipes, ?? diameter, 4? long hardware store
sharp knife, pin, long-nose pliers
Hints for absolute novices:Don’t let unusual vocabulary deter you. A ?lead? is just a piece of wire used to make connections. Label components as you remove them from the package. Practice using the microclips. If the metal ends are L-shaped bend them into a U with the long-nose pliers so they grab better. Chips and chip holders are very fragile. It is wise to purchase an extra of each in case you break the connections.


Do you know the differences between Hulda Clark’s Zapper and Bob Beck’s Blood Purifier and Magnetic Pulser? If not click here for a brief explanation. All info per the book “The Cure For All Diseases” by Dr. Hulda Regehr Clark, Ph.D., N.D.


These items are for researchers only. The unit and literature have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration in the U.S. They are not intended to cure or treat any disease. Government health departments and medical associations state that you must consult a medical doctor for treatment of all diseases. Individual results may vary.


Assembling The Zapper


You will be using the lid of the shoe box to mount the components. Save the box to enclose the finished project.


Pierce two holes near the ends of the lid. Enlarge the holes with a pen or pencil until the bolts would fit through. Mount the bolts on the outside about half way through the holes so there is a washer and nut holding it in place on both sides. Tighten. Label one hole “grounding bolt” on the inside and outside.
click an image to enlarge it


Mount the 555 chip in the wire wrap socket. Find the “top end” of the chip by searching the outside surface carefully for a cookie-shaped bite or hole taken out of it. Align the chip with the socket and very gently squeeze the pins of the chip into the socket until they click in place.


Make 8 pinholes to fit the wire wrap socket. Enlarge them slightly with a sharp pencil. Mount it on the outside. Write in the numbers of the pins (connections) on both the outside and inside, starting with number one to the left of the “cookie bite” as seen from outside. After number 4, cross over to number 5 and continue. Number 8 will be across from number 1.


Pierce two holes ? inch apart very near to pins 5, 6, 7, and 8. They should be less than 1/8 inch away. (Or, one end of each component can share a hole with the 555 chip). Mount the .01 uF capacitor near pin 5 on the outside. On the inside connect pin 5 to one end of this capacitor by simply twisting them together. Loop the capacitor wire around the pin first; then twist with the longnose pliers until you have made a tight connection. Bend the other wire from the capacitor flat against the inside of the shoe box lid. Label it .01 on the outside and inside. Mount the .0047 uF capacitor near pin 6. On the inside twist the capacitor wire around the pin. Flatten the wire from the other end and label it .0047. Mount the 3.9 K-Ohm resistor near pin 7, connecting it on the inside to the pin. Flatten the wire on the other end and label it 3.9. Mount the 1 K-Ohm resistor and connect it similarly to pin 8 and label it 1K.


Pierce two holes ? inch apart next to pin 3 (again, you can share the hole for pin 3 if you wish), in the direction of the bolt. Mount the other 1 K-Ohm resistor and label inside and outside. Twist the connections together and flatten the remaining wire. This resistor protects the circuit if you should accidentally short the terminals. Mount the 3.9 K-Ohm resistor downward. One end can go in the same hole as the 1K resistor near pin 3. Twist that end around pin 3 which already has the 1K resistor attached to it. Flatten the far end. Label.


Next to the 3.9 K-Ohm resistor pierce two holes ? inch apart for the LED. Notice that the LED has a positive and negative connection. The longer wire is the anode (positive). Mount the LED on the outside and bend back the wires, labeling them + and ? on the inside.


Near the top pierce a hole for the toggle switch. Enlarge it until the shaft fits through from the inside. Remove nut and washer from switch before mounting. You may need to trim away some paper with a serrated knife before replacing washer and nut on the outside. Tighten.


Next to the switch pierce two holes for the wires from the battery holder and poke them through. Attach the battery and tape it to the outside.

Now to Connect Everything
First, make holes at the corners of the lid with a pencil. Slit each corner to the hole. They will accommodate extra loops of wire that you get from using the clip leads to make connections. After each connection gently tack away the excess wire.


Twist the free ends of the two capacitors (.01 and .0047) together. Connect this to the grounding bolt using an alligator clip.


Bend the top ends of pin 2 and pin 6 (which already has a connection) inward towards each other in an L shape. Catch them both with an alligator clip and attach the other end of the alligator clip to the free end of the 3.9 K-Ohm resistor by pin 7.


Using an alligator clip connect pin 7 to the free end of the 1 K-Ohm resistor attached to pin 8.


Using two microclips connect pin 8 to one end of the switch, and pin 4 to the same end of the switch. (Put one hook inside the hole and the other hook around the whole connection. Check to make sure they are securely connected.)


Use an alligator clip to connect the free end of the other 1 K-Ohm resistor (by pin 3) to the bolt.


Twist the free end of the 3.9 K-Ohm resistor around the plus end of the LED. Connect the minus end of the LED to the grounding bolt using an alligator clip.
7. Connect pin number 1 on the chip to the grounding bolt with an alligator clip.
8. Attach an alligator clip to the outside of one of the bolts. Attach the other end to a handhold (copper pipe). Do the same for the other bolt and handhold.
9. Connect the minus end of the battery (black wire) to the grounding bolt with an alligator clip.
10. Connect the plus end of the battery (red wire) to the free end of the switch using a microclip lead. If the LED lights up you know the switch is ON. If it does not, flip the switch and see if the LED lights. Label the switch clearly. If you cannot get the LED to light in either switch position, you must double-check all of your connections, and make sure you have a fresh battery.
11. Finally replace the lid on the box, loosely, and slip a couple of rubber bands around the box to keep it securely shut.
12. Wrap handholds in one layer of wet paper towel before using. Grasp securely and turn the switch on to zap. I have not detected the copper in the handholds penetrating the skin. Perhaps this is due to the high frequency circuit used. Non copper handholds are now available from commercial providers.


Optional: measure the frequency of your zapper by connecting an oscilloscope or frequency counter to the handholds. Any electronics shop can do this. It should read between 20 and 40 kHz.


Optional: measure the voltage output by connecting it to an oscilloscope. It should be about 7 to 8 volts.


Optional: measure the current that flows through you when you are getting zapped. You will need a 1 K-Ohm resistor and oscilloscope. Connect the grounding bolt on the zapper to one end of the resistor. Connect the other end of the resistor to a handhold. (Adding this resistor to the circuit decreases the current slightly, but not significantly.) The other handhold is attached to the other bolt. Connect the scope ground wire to one end of the resistor. Connect the scope probe to the other end of the resistor. Turn the zapper ON and grasp the handholds. Read the voltage on the scope. It will read about 3.5 volts. Calculate current by dividing voltage by resistance. 3.5 volts divided by 1 K-Ohm is 3.5 ma (milliamperes).

Testing The Zapper

Trying the zapper on an illness to see “if it works” is not useful. Your symptoms may be due to a non-parasite. Or you may re-infect within hours of zapping. The best way to test your device is to find a few invaders that you currently have with the Syncrometer. This gives you a starting point. Then zap yourself. After the triple zapping, none of these invaders should be present. (From: “The Cure for all Cancers”, p.531ff.)